Italy
Winter magic at Lake Como and Milanese elegance
The Spontaneous Border Cross
Italy wasn't on my itinerary. Sitting in Lugano, Switzerland—just kilometers from the Italian border—the temptation became irresistible. On Sunday morning at 7 AM, I made an impulsive decision: skip the CHF 250 Uber and take the local bus to Lake Como for just CHF 8.
The journey started with a surprise discovery: a funicular right next to my hotel that saved me from the steep climb to Lugano's train station. After the most incredible breakfast at a station café—homemade custard with granola, hot chocolate, and an almond croissant—I hunted for the mysteriously unmarked bus stop that Google Maps insisted was there.
The Alpine Bus Journey
The bus ride was pure joy. I claimed the front seat for panoramic views as we wound through narrow mountain roads. Loud Italian passengers filled the air with animated conversations and enthusiastic "ciaos" at every stop. Twenty minutes in, we crossed the border—just a few police cars and a narrow passage—and suddenly we were in Italy.
For 2.5 hours, I watched Italian villages cling to hillsides, hairpin bends reveal new vistas, and the Alps slowly give way to the lake. The few other passengers seemed to know each other, creating the intimate atmosphere of a local commute that tourists rarely experience.
Como San Giovanni
We arrived at Como's main bus station. The town was quiet for a Sunday morning, wrapped in clouds with snow-capped mountains emerging behind the lake. The cold was biting—proper winter cold that made my breath visible.
Life moved slowly here. Old men smoked cigarettes over newspapers in café doorways. Cyclists raced through cobblestone streets, locals waving as they passed. Strangers kindly photographed me with the lake as backdrop, that universal traveler courtesy that makes solo trips feel less lonely.
The Lake Circuit
At the ferry dock, I learned the best travel hack: the government ferries offer a full-day unlimited pass for €15, while private charters charge 10-15 times more for a single journey. While waiting for my ferry, I ducked into an empty bodega where the owner was FaceTiming at a customer table.
She apologized—the kitchen wasn't ready for pizza. We settled on pain au chocolat and a warm latté. She wished me safe travels and returned to her video call. This was Italy: unhurried, unapologetic, human.
Bellagio & Varenna
I spent the day island-hopping around Lake Como. Bellagio lived up to its reputation with postcard-perfect streets climbing the hillside. The Sunday market was mostly closed, but I preferred the quiet—just a handful of tourists and locals in the cafés.
In Varenna, the lakeside promenade was nearly empty. I sat on the waterfront watching small boats navigate the misty water, the mountains appearing and disappearing behind clouds. The ferry's outdoor upper deck was freezing but offered unobstructed views—worth every shiver.
Milan Interlude
I couldn't resist extending the spontaneous day trip into an overnight stay. Milan was just a train ride away. The Duomo at sunset, aperitivo in Navigli, late-night pizza that redefined what pizza could be.
Reflections
Italy ambushed me in the best way. An unplanned bus ride turned into a two-day adventure that reminded me why spontaneous travel works: no expectations, just discovery. The cold, the quiet, the kind strangers, the ferry rides—all of it felt stolen, in the way that the best travel experiences often do.
And the food? Fresh pasta that tasted different in every town, Neapolitan pizza that ruined all other pizza for me, gelato that somehow got better with each scoop. Worth crossing the border for breakfast pastries alone.